<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><xml><records><record><source-app name="Biblio" version="7.x">Drupal-Biblio</source-app><ref-type>17</ref-type><contributors><authors><author><style face="normal" font="default" size="100%">Paukstadt, U.</style></author><author><style face="normal" font="default" size="100%">Paukstadt, L.H.</style></author></authors></contributors><titles><title><style face="normal" font="default" size="100%">Beobachtungen zur Seidenraupenzucht und Seidenproduktion in Mitteljava, Indonesien (Lepidoptera: Saturniidae)</style></title><secondary-title><style face="normal" font="default" size="100%">Beiträge zur Kenntnis der wilden Seidenspinner</style></secondary-title></titles><keywords><keyword><style  face="normal" font="default" size="100%">ATTACUS</style></keyword><keyword><style  face="normal" font="default" size="100%">BOMBYCIDAE</style></keyword><keyword><style  face="normal" font="default" size="100%">BOMBYX</style></keyword><keyword><style  face="normal" font="default" size="100%">CRICULA</style></keyword><keyword><style  face="normal" font="default" size="100%">SAMIA</style></keyword><keyword><style  face="normal" font="default" size="100%">SATURNIIDAE</style></keyword><keyword><style  face="normal" font="default" size="100%">SILK</style></keyword></keywords><dates><year><style  face="normal" font="default" size="100%">2019</style></year><pub-dates><date><style  face="normal" font="default" size="100%">09/2019</style></date></pub-dates></dates><volume><style face="normal" font="default" size="100%">17</style></volume><pages><style face="normal" font="default" size="100%">459-494</style></pages><language><style face="normal" font="default" size="100%">eng</style></language><abstract><style face="normal" font="default" size="100%">&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;This paper on the knowledge of the wild silkmoths (Lepidoptera: Saturniidae) deals with some observations made in the Central Java Province and the Special Region of Yogyakarta (Daerah Istimewah Yogyakarta), Indonesia on the breeding of the wild silkworm &lt;em&gt;Samia ricini (&lt;/em&gt;JONES, 1791), and the production of wild silks. After the well known Jogja Royal Silk closed, the wild silk breeding and production commenced again in Yogyakarta by a group of three families very recently in 2017. The marketing of the products runs under the name of Jamtra (&lt;strong&gt;Ja&lt;/strong&gt;ntra &lt;strong&gt;M&lt;/strong&gt;as Sejah&lt;strong&gt;t&lt;/strong&gt;e&lt;strong&gt;ra&lt;/strong&gt;) and jamtra-silk. The silks are spun and woven by using of ATBM-tools (= &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt;lat &lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt;enun &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;ukan &lt;strong&gt;M&lt;/strong&gt;esin; ind., [= non-machine weaving tools] = handlooms).&lt;br /&gt;
	Wild silks were observed being traditionally produced from cocoons of &lt;em&gt;S. ricini &lt;/em&gt;reared in Yogyakarta and Central Java, cocoons of &lt;em&gt;Attacus atlas&lt;/em&gt; (LINNAEUS, 1758) which were wild collected in Central Java and Yogyakarta and the region of Sukabumi, West Java, and cocoons of &lt;em&gt;Cricula trifenestrata&lt;/em&gt; (HELFER, 1837) which were wild collected in Central Java and Yogyakarta. Silk of &lt;em&gt;Bombyx mori &lt;/em&gt;(LINNAEUS, 1758) (Lepidoptera: Bombycidae) reared in Pati (near Semarang), Central Java Province and now also imported from China was used as warp threads for the production of &lt;em&gt;Cricula &lt;/em&gt;fabrics to reduce the price and for the stabilization of the final silk product. Rayon which was mainly imported from India was used as warp yarn for weaving of &lt;em&gt;Attacus &lt;/em&gt;and mixed &lt;em&gt;Attacus/Cricula &lt;/em&gt;fabrics for the same reason, to reduce the price of the final product and for the stabilization of the fabric. Rayon was mainly produced from &lt;em&gt;Pinus &lt;/em&gt;sp. The final silk product contains about 50% of pure silk (weft yarns) and about 50% of rayon (warp yarns). &lt;em&gt;Samia &lt;/em&gt;silk is also called Jantra silk and Sutera Singkong (= Singkong silk). The latter name is derived from singkong (= cassava), one of the two main food plants. &lt;em&gt;Samia &lt;/em&gt;textiles were produced without adding further products and therefore contain 100% pure eri-silk. No particular names were established for the wild silks and their products in Yogyakarta so far, except for &lt;em&gt;Samia &lt;/em&gt;silk which is called jantra by local people. Names commonly used in Yogyakarta are &lt;em&gt;Samia &lt;/em&gt;silk, &lt;em&gt;Attacus &lt;/em&gt;silk, and &lt;em&gt;Cricula &lt;/em&gt;silk which are derived from the generic names of the appropriate wild silkmoth.&lt;br /&gt;
	Some samples of cocoons, raw silk, silk yarn and the final silk products of &lt;em&gt;C. trifenestrata&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;A. atlas&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;S. ricini&lt;/em&gt; are preserved in the Research Collection of Ulrich and Laela H. Paukstadt (Wilhelmshaven, Germany), cf. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www-.wildsilkmoth-indonesia.com/1coc_vis.html&quot;&gt;http://www-.wildsilkmoth-indonesia.com/1coc_vis.html&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
</style></abstract><issue><style face="normal" font="default" size="100%">10</style></issue><section><style face="normal" font="default" size="100%">459</style></section></record></records></xml>